Naleśniki: Polish Rolled Pancakes with Fruit Preserves
Throughout much of American history, immigrants were encouraged to “assimilate” to life in the United States, putting aside language, dress and social morés from the “old country.” Many retained their ethnic foods as visceral links to home. By the 1960s and 70s Americans were expressing a growing interest in world cultures. As part of this movement there was a renewed sense of celebration of Americans of all ethnicities and food was an egalitarian and popular medium to explore these themes.
Time Life publishing produced a series of recipe-based books about world foods, including American Cooking: The Melting Pot about the American melting pot featuring the Kowalsky family of Westport—Polish immigrants who were successful farmers and then, later, building contractors.
To make 28 pancakes
- 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour
- 3 eggs
- 1 cup milk
- 1 cup water
- 1 tablespoon sugar
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 12 ounces fruit preserves (cherry, raspberry or strawberry)
- 1 tablespoon grated lemon rind
- 5 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted and cooled
- Confectioners’ sugar
To make the pancake batter in an electric blender, combine the flour, eggs, milk, water, sugar and salt in the blender jar and blend them at high speed for a few seconds. Turn off the machine, scrape down the sides of the jar with a rubber spatula, and blend again for 40 seconds.
To make the batter by hand, stir the eggs and milk together, then beat in the flour, water, sugar and salt with a whisk or a rotary or electric beater. Strain the mixture through a fine sieve set over a bowl.
In a small mixing bowl, stir together the fruit preserves and grated lemon rind. Set aside.
Heat a 60 inch crêpe pan or skillet over high heat until a drop of water flicked onto it evaporates instantly. With a pastry brush, lightly grease the bottom of the pan with about ½ teaspoon of the melted butter. Pour 3 tablespoons of batter into the pan and tip the pan so that the batter quickly covers the bottom; the batter should cling to the pan and begin to firm up almost immediately.
Cook the pancake for a minute or so, until a rim of brown shows around the edge. Turn it over with a spatula and cook for another 1 or 2 minutes, or until pancake is lightly browned. When the package is done, spread it with 2 heaping tablespoons of a fruit-preserve filling, roll it loosely into a cylinder, and place it in a baking dish in a 200 degree Fahrenheit oven to keep warm. Repeat the process with the rest of the pancake batter, adding butter to the skillet as needed. Serve the pancakes warm, sprinkled with confectioners’ sugar.
Sweet Milk Bran Bread
In 1947, the Westport Woman’s Club published The Connecticut Cookbook which is held in the Museum’s collection. The cookbook featured recipes from local ladies and was illustrated by noted Connecticut Artists such as Samuel E. Brown who lent this illustration to the Bread Chapter. This recipe for Sweet Milk Bran Bread was offered by Lillian Lambdin, wife of the noted Westport artist Robert Lambdin. This whole grain loaf is sweetened with molasses and dates—both of which add plenty of iron to the bread but raisins can be substituted or the dried fruit can be omitted altogether.
- 2 cups white flour (sift before measuring)
- 1 cup whole wheat flour
- 1 cup bran
- 1 cup molasses
- 2 cups sweet milk (whole milk)
- 1 teaspoon soda
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 package dates or raisins, cut up
- Mix all ingredients well. Place in a well-greased bread pan.
- Bake at 300 degrees for 90 minutes.
- Let cool on a wire rack to room temperature before removing and serving.
In the past, the dandelion was well known as a folk medicine cure-all. Used in soups or tinctures or made into wine, dandelion was long thought to be a blood cleanser, good for the liver and the kidneys and rejuvenating as a spring tonic, This recipe is inspired by Clara’s Kitchen, a web site dedicated to Depression era cooking by Clara Cannucciari (1915-2013) based on her own experiences living through that era. It was tested and prepared by Charlotte D’Anna, a sophomore at Staples.
Salads from foraged greens have been popular for centuries before and after the 1930s and this particular one will change your mind about dandelions being a nuisance weed to a delicious and elegant salad green with a zesty bite.
Before foraging, dandelions please be sure you are picking from an area untreated with pesticides or commercial fertilizers. The best way to pick and clean dandelions are by digging them up from the root using a common weeding tool. In a pinch a flat head screwdriver or butter knife will do the trick too.
- 1 dozen dandelions, washed
- 1 ½ teaspoons sea salt
- Juice of 1 lemon
- 1 garlic clove, minced
- ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
- 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
- 2 teaspoons raw honey
- 6 grape or cherry tomatoes sliced in half
- 1/3 cup shaved parmesan cheese
1. Wash the dandelions: Hold each dandelion plant under cold running water, hold each dandelion by the root to wash off dirt and debris. Have a large bowl filled with cold water ready and place each dandelion into it. Swirl the dandelions around and pour off the water when cloudy. Rinse the bowl and repeat until water is clear.
2. Add 1 teaspoon of the sea salt and half of the lemon juice to the dandelions and fresh water in the bowl and set aside for 10 minutes. Pick off the flowers from the stem base and set aside on a doubled-up paper towel to dry.
3. Turn each dandelion upside-down, root facing up and softly collect the leaves in one hand then pinch and twist off the leaves 1/4 inch above the root base with the other hand. Place the leaves in a colander and discard the roots. Dry using paper towels or a salad spinner.
4. Place the dried dandelion leaves in a large salad bowl along with the cherry tomatoes
5. Whisk together the remaining salt and lemon juice along with the pepper, olive oil and honey. Pour over the dandelion salad and toss lightly. Garnish with shaved parmesan cheese and dandelion flowers.
Hoe Cakes & Honey
This recipe for hoecakes is adapted courtesy of George Washington’s Mount Vernon. The first president was a fan of these cornmeal pancakes and often had them for breakfast generously drizzled with honey—of which he was particularly fond. Washington’s affinity for the stuff was so well known that during the time of the first presidency, so many well-wishers left local honey at Washington’s Philadelphia door, that there was always a surplus.
We call for baking spray or safflower oil to fry the hoecakes. You may use any flavorless oil that you like as long as it has a high scorch point, including lard or shortening.
- 1/2 teaspoon active dry yeast
- 2 1/2 cups white or yellow cornmeal, divided
- 3 to 4 cups lukewarm water
- 1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
- 1 large egg, lightly beaten
- Safflower oil or baking spray as needed
- Melted butter for drizzling
- Honey or maple syrup for serving
Mix the yeast and 1 1/4 cups of the cornmeal in a large bowl. Add 1 cup of the lukewarm water, stirring to combine thoroughly. Mix in 1/2 cup more of the water, if needed, to give the mixture the consistency of pancake batter. Cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 8 hours, or overnight.
- Preheat the oven to 200°F.
- Make the hoecakes: Stir 1/2 to 1 cup of the remaining water to the batter. Stir in the salt and the egg, blending thoroughly. Gradually add the remaining 1 1/4 cups of cornmeal, alternating with enough additional lukewarm water to make a mixture that is the consistency of waffle batter (similar to cake batter). Cover with a towel, and set aside at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes.
- Heat a griddle or large, wide skillet on medium-high heat, and brush 2 teaspoons of safflower oil. Alternatively, you may spray the griddle with baking spray. Drop a scant 1/4 cup of the batter onto the griddle and cook on one side for about 5 minutes, or until lightly browned. Repeat but do not crowd the griddle or pan. Make sure there is at least 2 inches between each hoecake.
- With a spatula, turn the hoecakes over and continue cooking another 4 to 5 minutes, until browned.
- Place the hoecakes on an oven-proof platter, and set it in the preheated oven to keep warm while making the rest of the batch. Drizzle each batch with melted butter.
- Serve the hoecakes warm, drizzled with honey or maple syrup.
The Sherry Flip
Taverns in early America served a variety of drinks including beer, wine and spirits. Mixed drinks weren’t the sophisticated quaffs we know today. Often combining liquors for the best bang, heavily spiced and including for body, nutrition and froth, early American cocktails were served room temperature, warm or even hot since ice was not available. A common sailor’s drink, The Flip featured beer, rum, and molasses that was heated with a hot iron and served warm.
- 1 large egg
- ½ ounce (1 tablespoon) Simple Syrup*
- 2 ounces (¼ cup) East India Solera Lustau Sherry or sherry of your choice
- Nutmeg for garnish
Makes 1 drink
- Crack the egg in a small bowl then pour the egg into a cocktail shaker or blender. Cracking the egg into another vessel allows you to remove any bits of shell and to also ensure the egg is fresh enough to use before pouring into your main mix.
- Add the simple syrup and sherry. Seal the shaker and shake vigorously away from you for 30 seconds. Alternatively, if using a blender, mix in high speed for 15 seconds.
Lucien Gaudin Cocktail
Lucien Gaudin was a French fencer during the 1920s who medaled in no less than three Olympic competitions in that decade which became known as the Annes Folles or “Crazy Years”. Gaudin quickly became a national hero for his efforts and the cocktail that bears his name was born and enjoyed in the myriad cafes, bars, and restaurants around Paris where a vibrant new-century social culture bloomed.
- 1 1/2 ounce (3 tablespoons) gin
- ¾ ounce (1 ½ tablespoons) Campari
- 3/4 ounce (1 ½ tablespoons) dry vermouth
- 3/4 ounce (1 ½ tablespoons) Cointreau
- Orange, washed, for twist (optional)
Makes 1 drink
- Add all ingredients to a mixing beaker with a generous amount of ice.
- Stir for 10 to 15 seconds. Strain and pour into a chilled martini glass.
- Using a vegetable peeler, peel a 3 inch piece of rind from the washed orange and garnish cocktail.
It may be surprising but chocolate cream pie, or chocolate tart was a common dessert during Colonial times. Chocolate arrived in America via the West Indies and was used in drinking chocolate (cocoa) and the shells of the cocoa beans were used to make a light tea.
Eighteenth century chocolate was far different from what we know today—it was a grittier product and usually flavored with spices like nutmeg, cinnamon, and allspice in a recipe similar to traditional Central American and Mexican preparations. The smooth, creamy chocolate we know today wasn’t available until later in the 19th century when machinery was invented to grind the pure cocoa paste more finely and add back cocoa butter and sugar during the refining process.
Chocolate Tart recipes are quite common in cookbooks of the period such as Englishwoman Hannah Glasse’s 1747 book The Art of Cookery Made Plain And Easy. Modern readers might be surprised that Glasse’s recipe (and most others of the time) calls for rice flour which is used as a thickening agent. Rice and rice flour were commonly used at the time since rice came to England and later America, via the robust British trade with the East and West Indies. Later, rice was grown in the southern American colonies as well. This recipe uses cornstarch as a more effective thickener however you can harken back to tradition and substitute rice flour instead.
Traditionally this tart would have been served with a sugar crust on top like a crème brulee but we prefer to serve it with Chantilly cream (sweetened whip cream). You can find that recipe here.
- 1 tablespoon cornstarch or rice flour
- ¼ cup sugar (or to taste)
- 4 large egg yolks
- 2 cups heavy cream
- 1 tablespoon whole milk
- 6 ounces semisweet chocolate chunks or chips
- Pinch of salt
- 1 9-inch pie shell, frozen or use our recipe here
Makes 1, 9-inch pie
- In a medium bowl mix together cornstarch or rice flour, sugar and egg yolks and set aside.
- Mix together the cream and chocolate in a medium sauce pan over medium heat and bring just to a boil, stirring constantly until the chocolate is melted. Do not allow the mixture to boil.
- Add the milk and pinch of salt. Stir well.
- Using a ladle, pour 1/2 cup of the chocolate mixture in a very thin stream into the egg mixture, whisking vigorously the whole time. You may also do this in the bowl of a stand mixer.
- Add the egg and cream mixture back to the pot with the remaining chocolate cream mixture and whisk well. Heat over medium heat, whisking well until thickened, about 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from heat and allow to cool completely.
- Preheat the oven to 350F. If using homemade pie crust, line a 9 inch pie plate with rolled out crust. Pour the cooled chocolate mixture into the pie crust and bake until firm—about 40 to 45 minutes.
- Remove from oven and cool completely. Wrap in plastic and cool at least 8 hours but preferably overnight. Serve with Chantilly Cream.
Sweetened whipped heavy cream by a fancy name is Chantilly Cream—a popular and delicious accompaniment to everything from fresh fruit to ice cream to pie and more. Culinary legend attributes this delightful airy concoction to the 17th century French chef, Vatel, who worked in the Château de Chantilly in France. In Chef Vatel’s time, as today, a copper bowl works best to whip cream—especially by hand. However, a good stand mixer and balloon whisk attachment make quick work of the job.
- 1 cup cold, heavy whipping cream
- 2 tablespoons sugar
- 1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Serves 6 to 8
- Combine all the ingredients in a copper bowl or metal bowl of a stand mixer.
- Whip until firm peaks form that hold their shape when the whisk or whisk attachment is lifted up and out of the bowl.
- Serve immediately, chilling unused portions.
Jesup Hall’s The Buzzed Bee
Branden Hahn, General Manager at Chef Bill Taibe’s popular downtown Westport eatery, Jesup Hall, offers this modern take on the classic Prohibition era cocktail called “The Bee’s Knees” (find the original here). Hahn’s spicy, sophisticated version of the drink uses vodka instead of gin and offers a kick with ginger syrup sweetened with demerara sugar, a unique, partially-refined large grained brown sugar grade originally milled in South America.
For the Honey Syrup:
- ½ cup honey
- ½ cup water
For the Spicy Ginger Syrup:
- 4 ounces ginger, chopped
- 1 cup water
- 1 cup demerara sugar
For the Cocktail
- 2 oz. (¼ cup) Vodka
- .5 oz (2 teaspoons) Honey Syrup
- .5 (2 teaspoons) Spicy Ginger Syrup
- .5 (2 teaspoons)fresh lemon juice
- Club Soda as needed
- 1 lemon for twist to garnish (Optional)
- Make the Honey Simple Syrup: Combine the honey and water in a small saucepan over medium heat and bring to a simmer. Simmer until reduced by half—about 2 minutes. Remove from heat and store in a sealable glass bottle.
- Make the Spicy Ginger Syrup: Combine ginger and water in a blender or food processor and process to a smooth liquid. Strain the liquid into another bowl or a glass jar. Mix the ginger mixture and demerara sugar together in a small saucepan and place over medium low heat and bring to a simmer. Simmer until all the sugar is dissolved and remove from heat. Store in a sealable glass bottle.
- Make the Cocktail: Combine all the cocktail ingredients except the club soda in a cocktail shaker filled with ice. Strain over ice into a Collins glass or tall, narrow tumbler. Top with club soda.
- Make the Lemon Twist: Take a potato peeler, sharp paring knife or small channel knife and peel a narrow strip of rind around the lemon crosswise. Place the strip on a flat surface, pith side up, and roll away from you in tight coils—as if rolling a rug. Uncoil and use in your cocktail as a garnish
ProTip: Use the edge of a teaspoon to peel ginger. Hold the spoon with cup facing toward you and use the edge to scrape away the skin. The shape of the spoon allows you to get into ginger’s knobby nooks and crannies without losing too much of the flesh itself.